Capetown

As Alex said to me, Capetown is one of those few places on the planet that exceeds already unrealistically high expectations. What a vibrant mix this place is! It is, first, beautiful; a jewel of a city nestled into the protective shadow of Table Mountain, an enormous, awe-inspiring colossus of a stone formation that provides a backdrop from almost any sight line in the city. Capetown is chic; it is tropical; it is cosmopolitan; it is diverse, and, at least for our visit, offers air that is crisp and fresh while still managing to bask in almost 90 degree temperatures. As is true for many of the world's great cities, Capetown's diverse population is not so much a source of tension as it is a promoter of energy. Its mix of muslims, whites, blacks and Indians has produced for us in our short stay thus far a visual and cultural vitality that you just don't see every day.

After the hearty and tempting feast offered to us at breakfast at our B&B (De Tafelberg Guest House), Alex literally appeared at my shoulder as I chatted with our host, Kris. Not having seen Alex for 3 months, and having lived vicariously through his vivid emails of his not-so-safe exploits in South America, he was a sight for sore eyes, now with a nicely developing beard. (To add to his colorful bag of exploits -- like skydiving and trekking for days through glaciers and mountains -- he informed us he had spent his time in South Africa getting dropped into the cold waters off Gainsbaai in cages while ravenous great white sharks banged up against the bars looking for dessert. not my idea of a restful morning, but who am I to argue?) Since he had been in town a few days, Alex served as tour guide as he led us through city neighborhoods and parks. We visited the 6th District Museum, a poignant testimonial to the many who suffered under apartheid and, specifically, the thousands who were forcibly evicted from their downtown homes and forced into townships to make way for urban development. I spoke to the man who established the museum, and marveled at the museum's (and his) upbeat message about hope and perseverance.

With a wonderful lunch under our belts at an outdoor cafe, we discovered the city's open air market, an intricate maze filled with a dizzying array of local art, artifacts, clothing and junk. I particularly loved the awesome tribal masks carved from wood that I wish I had room for in my suitcase. All this came complete, of course, with a laughingly funny array of hawkers who would charm, cajole, plead and arm twist any possible sale -- a negotiator's smorgasbord.

This is a very cool place.